Friday, April 28, 2006

Life in the Peace War

It's hot.

I just need to get that out of the way, I decided to limit myself to two descriptions of the weather in this e-mail.  Sometimes Nicole's mom, when she calls, asks if we know how hot it is right now.  We don't.  Deliberately.  Someday, when I am back in the states wearing shorts and a tanktop and drinking a frozen strawberry limeade while simultaneously watching HBO and surfing the net on a high speed connection, I fully intend to look up the temperature data for what will by then have become a distant period of my life.  But right now, ignorance is bliss.

Not much has changed in the litterbox that is my home in the past few weeks.  We have been out visiting villages for the stove project this past week.  It has its highs and lows.  On good days  they buy stoves and we dance all night.  On good days we get there in time for a nap.  On good days the village has water and bathrooms.  On bad days they steal our fish and we end up cooking dinner for ourselves and the guys after a full days work. On one of the stoves we failed to sell.  In the dark.  With very dull knives.  My little jar of liquid bandages has never come in so handy.  Although, I still feel bad giving it to Mauritanians.  Americans understand that the better the antiseptic is for you, the more painful it is to apply.  The burning means it's working, no pain, no gain.  This is not a concept Mauritanians understand.  Our driver, Iba Low, scraped his foot while unloading a stove in Fass, Amy asked me for my liquid band aids.  Iba has the sweetest nature of any Mauritanian man I have ever met, he takes care of us, he's like a dad.  So I was really, really loathe to apply liquid fire to his foot.  I tried to explain to him, "Haathe lahi yewga hatte"  aka "This is really going to hurt."  He smiled, "Manni khayiv"  "I'm not scared."  I think I protested and told him that, no, really, this was going to hurt a lot, hatte hatte.  I was up to four "hatte's" befoer I finally caved in and painted the fingernail polish like substance on his scrape.  Iba didn't flinch or make a face, but I was shaking and had to run off, after apologizing profusely.

Besides perfecting my Florence Nightingale impression, I developed other skills over the past four trips.  I have always had the ability to fall asleep in strange places.  I credit my theatre experience where I had long rehearsals and, never being the lead, lengthy pauses between when I was required to be on stage; pauses in which I could catch a quick nap in the fourth row or on a convenient piece of discarded scenery.  In Mauritania, I have parlayed that ability into a knack for falling asleep on all kinds of transport, from Peace Corps cars to taxi brouse.  My favorite place to ride, on top of the cab, however, was usually unavailable on stove trips.  On our second trip, the ill fated drive to the ocean, Nicole, Crista and I were able to ride on top of the cab of the truck, only because we had to take two cars and the sound equipment, which has always traveled strapped to the top of the cab so as to ensure nothing is packed on top of it, was on the other truck.  On all animations since, the top of the cab has been covered with the generator and sound boards.  But, after its failure to work in Jigena resulted in Abdu having to rent a car and drive out after dark from Rosso to fix it, things have moved around a bit, and now those three mysterious black boxes with all the shiny silver plugs have been moved to the passenger seat, leaving my favorite spot open again.  And I consider it a proud achievement that on Thursday morning, as we headed out to Gani, still drowsy from Wednesday night's Breun dance party that lasted till past one in the morning, I found myself once again napping- on top of the cab of a pick up, on hand on the bar,while bouncing over an unpaved road.  I may consider a career on the rodeo circuit if that whole higher education thing doesn't pan out.

Other amusing moments include me trying to help cook dinner in Jigena.  I had lost my beloved Pretzl headlamp in Atar, so when I needed light to see what I was cutting, I had to clamp my cell phone between my teeth and unzip the case enough for the little lightbulb on the end to be exposed.  This could not go on for long because a) holding the cell phone in my teeth makes me drool, not a plus in food preparation, and b) I was helping Amy cut meat, and after a while I thought it would be better for my appetite NOT to see what I was going to be eating.  Ignorance can really be bliss.

Highlight of the week, however, has to go to the package I recieved from Aunt Maggie.  It seems that cousin Megan Wade's class had written letters to me.  Imagine my surprise when I opened the first letter, which had an American flag drawn on the front, fifty stars clearly painstakingly drawn in, and the words "Thank you!" in purple marker.  There was also a piece of the right side mising, which, when you opened the card, made a hole in the shape of a heart in the middle of the letter, which read: Dear soldier, thank you for keeping our country safe! From, Indian Grove School."
I then found the note from Aunt Maggie, explaining that the class had been writing cards for me and two other cousins in the armed forces, and the kids apparantly got confused.  In the end I ended up with 5 letters addressed "Dear soldier" and SIX addressed "Dear Amy."  So if you know any Marines that end up with cool construction paper cards from Mt. Prospect, IL, tell them bismillah for now but I want those back when they come home.
The children were very creative.  Here are some selections from my favorites:
"Dear Amy, I am happy that you help farmers and make medicine I like what you do it is really helpful. From Amina"
"Thanks for helping evry one, keep it up. Your a good porson." From Jake Capute
But the Grand Prize goes to Jaclyn Stassen, who not only wrote the most, and wrote her letter to me, but who changed marker colors every single line.  That's dedication.
"[Green]Dear Amy, I think you are very brave [Blue]! How are you in the Peace War [Red] You are doing somthing good, teaching and helping farmers in [Orange] Mauritania! Love, Jaclyn Stassen"
And of courseI loved the personal message from my cousin Megan, who misses me and wants me to come visit soon.  Even though I think she was a baby the last time I saw her.  What can I say, people get attached to me.
Anyway, clearly these children are discerning, insightful, and brilliant beyond brilliant.  I think we can expect great things from the following: Megan Wade, Jaclyn Stassen, Elyse Baptiste, Jake Capute, Rapolas (don't know if that is a first or last name), Amina, Patryisa, Michaela (who kindly included a phonetical spelling of her  name  undeneath her signature so I would know how to say it after thanking me, the soldier, for "representing us in the war"), Maggie (who wishes a soldier somewhere Happy Holidays), and to Adam Hauser,who actually wanted to talk to our cousin Brian about what his job is and why he is learning Korean, he even included a return address. I may write to him anyway.
That was awesome Aunt Maggie, thank the whole darn school for me.  The letters are going up on the wall in our office.

It's still hot.
love, your little soldier
amy

Thursday, April 06, 2006

Comings and Goings

Ahh, back to the Wonderland that is Nouakchott.  Electricity, running water, ice cream, silverware... but, as my region mates in Rosso like to remind me, these are luxuries that really have no place in the life of a Peace Corps volunteer.
I'll try not to enjoy them too much over the next few days.
It has been a little strange in our corner of the sandbox.  Due to a mysterious informant complaining about the presence of village volunteers in the regional capital, the higher ups at Peace Corps decided to close the house in Rosso where village volunteers came in to check the mail, use the internet, make phone calls, and take showers.  Bummer.  An even bigger bummer is the drama of eighth-grade proportions that has ensued between the Rosso volunteers, essentially inaffected and happy about the change, and the deprived villagers who now have no access to those simple things the others still get every day.  It has not been one of our prouder moments, I'll say that.  In the end it seems that for the moment the best option is to avoid Rosso as much as possible.  Mom doesn't need to cry her eyes out yet, though, since while I am still working on the stove project I will have to be in Rosso to work.  Lodging is temporarily solved for the next two months, after that, who knows.  But the important fact remains the same, all my packages and letters still come to the same address.  It will just be up to our regional coordinator to put them on the car to my village every week or so since I won't be coming in very often.  I will appreciate those words from the real world all the more.
So aside from the unexpected return to middle school, I had a flashback to college when Brian Littman-Smith, a fellow Sidizen, came to visit.  Most people would fly to Mauritania from Europe.  Brian took a boat, a car, and a train, as in he crossed the desert.  Rice people: what can I say, we're different.  Far from having a restful visit, we put Brian to work hauling stoves on project animations in two villages.  Then he got to come back to the Rosso house, may she rest in peace, and listen to us argue and whine and then help us move all the furniture out.  "I think this is a good place for you," he said.  "Why?"  I asked.  "Because you like to complain, and there is plenty of material for that here."  Ouch, but not entirely untrue.  Will make valient efforts to whine less in future.
Anyway, after far too much time spent lifting things we finally got out of Rosso and headed to the village.  Of course, we missed the car to Jidrel Mohghuen and had to take the pick up to Tekane, get out at the crossroads, and walk for 45 minutes.  Not a problem for me, but seeing as Brian was carrying all his possessions on his back, he was pretty tired by the time we reached home.  But, as promised, there was nothing we had to do and nowhere we had to be the whole next day except for heading out to eat lunch with my host family.  For a vegetarian, Brian did admirably well.
We went out into the forest in the late afternoon because Brian wanted to see the monkeys I speak so much of, and the lizards.  After walking until near dark, not a single one was spotted; my animal friends had chosen the path of lameness.  Spiteful little things that they are, I have seen monkeys nearly every day since Brian left. 
Work in the village goes as always.  The hot season has begun in earnest in the Trarza, bringing with it a hot and dusty wind off the desert.  But last week I stepped outside and was amazed at how good the air smelled, it smelled really, really good.  Nicole later filled me in, it was probably because the rice fields, which have been flooded using the water pump these past weeks, have sprouted and I am smelling the long forgotten scent of grass.  It smelled like spring whatever it was.  I went out to work with the women's cooperative, I cut grass around the banana trees, planted a mint patch, and planted eggplant seedlings.  The last job was particularly fun because I got to squish around in the flooded field barefoot shoving little sprouts in the ground.  The women were particularly amused.
This meant, of course, that I actually had to take a bath that day, highly unusual.  But it wasn't too painful.  A part of this experience is that I now once again have the ability to empathize with 6 year olds everywhere. Maybe I'm regressing.  Oh dear, by the time I get home I'll be spitting out peas and carrots.
Happy Easter to all.  If I can find food coloring somewhere in this city I fulyl intend to dye eggs.
 
love
amy

Dangerous Dinosaur Mud


It looks solid... Posted by Hello

...until you drive a truck carrying 2 tons of steel across it. Then the ground goes squish. Posted by Hello